WINE SPECTATOR CELEBRATION PARTY

 What an evening out! The sight of canalboats, meadows and waterbirds in the clear evening light as we approached Bedwyn on the London train had already put me in the mood. A glass of Gosset Grande Reserve champagne and oysters served by Roger, and I was ready to go. Went straight for the Alvear PX, as you don't get to taste an 1830 every day. Approached via the 1927 and 1910. All were beautifully balanced, but the depth, complexity and poise of the 1830 was phenomenal - when a wine of such sweetness can at the same time feel 'dry', you know you've hit a winner.

Gosset again to refresh the palate, then on to the other wines of great age, the Tondonia Rioja Gran Reservas. Remarkably, both reds and whites from 1973 and 1964 were fresh and zippy, a great counterpoint to their serious complexity.Then the Trimbach Alsace whites (my favourite of which was the ultra-elegant Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling), a stunning vertical of L. Latour Corton Charlemagnes dating from 1996, the subtle and charming Cervaro whites, Moss Wood Cabernets back to 1994 (which struck me as admirably discrete and balanced in style considering the power of the fruit - I thought the 1998 was incredible). Finally, to finish, the Amon Ra 2002, mind-blowingly smooth, silky and elegant, considering the power and purity of its Australian Shiraz fruit. Got lots of points from Robert Parker. Deserves them.
Didn't want to leave. What a night! Thanks, Roger & Sue."

Nick Sowicz MW